You have questions, we have answers! Here is a list of our most-frequently asked questions. If you don’t see an answer to your question below, please contact us.
Has my order shipped? | |
Click the 9 dots at the top right hand corner of the header bar on the page, then "My Account / Order Status" to check your orders status. | |
How do I change quantities or cancel an item in my order? | |
Click the "My Account / Order Status" link at the top right hand side of our site to view orders you have placed. Then click the "Change quantities / cancel orders" link to find and edit your order. Please note that once an order has begun processing or has shipped, the order is no longer editable. | |
How do I track my order? | |
Click the "My Account / Order Status" link at the top right hand side of our site to track your order. | |
My order never arrived. | |
Click the "My Account / Order Status" link at the top right hand side of our site to track your order status. Be sure that all of the items in your order have shipped already. If you order displays your Package Tracking Numbers, check with the shipper to confirm that your packages were delivered. If your packages each show a status of "delivered", please contact customer service for assistance. | |
An item is missing from my shipment. | |
Click the "My Account / Order Status" link at the top right hand side of our site to track your order status. Be sure that all of the items in your order have shipped already. If you order displays your Package Tracking Numbers, check with the shipper to confirm that your packages were delivered. If your packages each show a status of "delivered", please contact customer service for assistance. | |
My product is missing parts. | |
Click the "My Account / Order Status" link at the top right hand side of our site to track your order status. Be sure that all of the items in your order have shipped already. If you order displays your Package Tracking Numbers, check with the shipper to confirm that your packages were delivered. If your packages each show a status of "delivered", please contact customer service for assistance. | |
When will my backorder arrive? | |
Backordered items are those which our suppliers are unable to predict when they will have more in stock, but as soon as they do, we will be able to ship the item to you. |
Properly installed cables typically have a tension load of 200-300 lbs-per-cable, so it’s important that your frame is designed and built strong enough to support these loads. Frames can also be designed to use cables more efficiently, thereby reducing the total quantity of cables needed and the overall cost. In most cases, just adding some simple reinforcing features and design changes will do the trick. For basic guidelines to help you prepare your railing frame, see the Feeney CableRail Installation Instructions, as well as Frame Requirements for Wood or Frame Requirements for Metal. Or give us a call at 1-800-888-2418, if you need assistance.
Intermediate pickets (also referred to as vertical spacers) are used as a frame design option to replace some of the larger, bulkier intermediate posts, in order to achieve a more open railing design. They are non-structural members and are only intended to maintain cable spacing and minimize possible cable deflection. Intermediate pickets are typically made from 1″x 2″ or 2″x 2″ wood strips, 1″ copper water tubing, or 1/4″ thick metal flat bar, but other slender materials may be used. You may also use our pre-drilled, powder-coated Aluminum Intermediate Pickets (accessory items #7648 & #7649).
The International Building Code states that a 4-inch sphere cannot pass through any opening in your railing and since cable is non-rigid, the flex of the cable must be taken into account. We recommend spacing the cables no more than 3 inches apart to allow for possible cable deflection and to meet the intent of the code. Before starting a CableRail project, installers should always check with their local building department to see if there are any special local requirements for using and installing cable railings.
We recommend having a post or vertical member (intermediate picket) at least every 3 feet. With the posts/verticals spaced 3 feet apart and the cables spaced 3 inches apart, you should be able to tension the cables so that they won’t open past the 4-inch sphere code requirement when a reasonable force is applied.
When using our standard CableRail Kits, we recommend that straight runs of cable (no corners or bends) should not exceed 70 feet. Runs with corner bends (using double corner posts) should not exceed 40 feet and should not have more than two corners per run. Maximum run lengths may be less if using CableRail Conceal Kits or other Quick-Connect® or swage-type fittings. Give us a call to confirm the maximum run lengths for your specific project.
The beauty of the standard CableRail Kits is that you don’t need any special crimping tools. The basic tool list would include safety glasses, work gloves, tape measure, pencil, electric drill & bits, hammer, 7/16-inch wrench, locking pliers, hacksaw, cable lacing needle, cable cutters or electric grinder with cut-off disk. We also recommend using our Cable Tension Gauge (#6004-PKG) to measure final cable tension. If you have a lot of cables to install, our Cable Tensioning Tool (#6005-PKG) can save even more time.
Should this occur, use our Quick-Connect® Release Tool (sold separately, #3128-PKG) to unlock the jaws on the Quick-Connect® Inset fitting.
The CableRail cable is made up of 19 individual wires twisted together. Sometimes, these individual wires can splay open and snag when lacing the cable ends through the post holes. The reusable Cable Lacing Needle slides onto the end of the cable and keeps all of the wires contained within the needle, which allows you to quickly guide the cable through the holes without snagging.
No! The diameter of the Cable Lacing Needle is too large and will become wedged in the Quick-Connect® Inset fitting, rendering the fitting useless. Be sure to remove the Cable Lacing Needle and cleanly trim the end of the cable before inserting the bare cable into any Quick-Connect® style fitting.
All CableRail cables and fittings are made from high quality 316-grade stainless steel (also referred to as “marine grade”). This high-quality stainless steel offers beauty, superior weather durability, high strength and low maintenance characteristics that far exceed other traditional railing infill materials.
CableRail cables and fittings are made from high quality 316-grade stainless steel for weather-tough durability and very low maintenance. However, while rare, corrosion or staining may sometimes occur on stainless steel due to airborne contaminants, humidity, and other factors, especially in coastal environments. Periodic maintenance is recommended. Wipe the cables with soap and warm water and use either a rag or non-abrasive synthetic pad to keep them clean and free of salt or other contaminates. We also recommend our Stainless Steel Cleaner & Protectant Kit (#5064-PKG) with Feeney SteelProtect™ and SteelRenewal™. The SteelProtect™ product provides a protective layer that can help maintain the performance and luster of the cables and fittings. If any staining does occur, biodegradable SteelRenewal™ cleaning gel effectively removes staining and other contaminants without scrubbing. Simply apply, allow it to sit, and then rinse it off. Be sure to also check the cables periodically for proper…
For CableRail installations with harsher conditions, such as coastal environments, we recommend cleaning cables and applying our Feeney SteelProtect™ protectant product regularly. Please see the information above to learn more about cable maintenance, including re-tensioning the cables and recommended use of our SteelProtect™ and SteelRenewal™ cleaner and protectant products.
No. The cables are laced freely through holes in the intermediate posts and are then tensioned with end fittings that attach to only the end or corner termination posts.
Not with the standard CableRail Kits. The cable fittings used with the standard Kits are attached by drilling holes all the way through the end posts and the fittings then bear up against the outside faces of the posts. If your railing frame runs into the face of a post/wall, you have two options: 1 ) install an end post three-to-four inches away from the wall face to allow access for attaching the standard Kit cable end fittings or 2) select fittings and cable from our CableRail Fittings or custom hardware options on our website to create assemblies specifically designed for wall or post face mounting. For recommendations and assistance, please give us a call at 707-224-9100.
In most cases, you will need to terminate the cables at a single corner post. To run the cables continuously around a corner, you would need to have double posts at the corner. For basic guidelines to help prepare your railing frame, please see our Feeney CableRail Installation Instructions.
While it is always best to measure as accurately as possible, CableRail Kits allow for quite a bit of flexibility because they are sold in prefabricated, pre-cut lengths designed to be trimmed to exact length in the field. We recommend that you measure from outside-face to outside-face of the end posts (the posts you will attach the fittings to), and then add one foot to that length. You can then select a CableRail Kit that is at least as long as the augmented dimension. If you’re not sure, just give us a call at 707-224-9100.
No. Protector sleeves protect the wood from cable abrasion, and they are only needed at those hole locations where the cable enters the post at an angle and would have a tendency to cut into the wood. Typical locations are at the transition posts on stairs or ramps or the outside faces of double corner posts.
When using CableRail Kits on stair railings, you will often need to attach the cable end fittings through an angled hole in the stair end posts. This will cause the fittings to protrude from the post at an angle. The beveled washers are then used to compensate for that angle and provide a flat bearing surface for the end fittings.
No. Wire cutters will crush the cable and cause you significant frustration during installation. You should use cable cutters that are designed to cleanly shear the cable (see our Cable Cutters #2972-PKG). An electric grinder with a cut-off disk is another option that works very well for trimming both the cable and the excess threads on the Threaded Terminal fittings.
No. As soon as you bend the cable more than 45 degrees, it will kink, and you will not be able to achieve the require tension. Each horizontal cable needs to be a separate assembly.
The cost per linear foot varies depending on the length and quantity of CableRail Kits needed for your project. The main expense is in the end fittings, so the longer the cable can run, the fewer fittings you’ll need, so the cost per linear foot will be less. Another factor is the height of your railing frame. The taller the railing frame, the more cables and fittings you’ll need, and this will result in a higher cost per linear foot. An authorized Feeney CableRail dealer like CableRailDirect can help determine what you’ll need and provide pricing options. Contact them at 707-224-9100.
While we do not do installations, the CableRail system is designed to be easy to install. Anyone who is comfortable using tools should have no trouble installing CableRail Kits. If you would like someone to perform the installation, we suggest consulting your authorized Feeney CableRail dealer CableRailDirect at 707-224-9100. They are available for technical assistance as well at 707-224-9100 and can assist with any questions you or your installer may have regarding the installation.
Yes. We offer a wide selection of cables and fittings, many of which include our Quick-Connect® automatic locking-jaw technology, all engineered for easy installation in the field. See our CableRail Fittings page for more information.
We engineer the DesignRail® aluminum railing system to be user-friendly. Basic carpentry skills and tools will accomplish most tasks. A good quality chop saw with a high-quality metal cutting blade is needed for cutting and mitering the aluminum extrusions. Be sure to check out our DesignRail® Railing Kits. They can make installations even easier.
Our finishes are applied in a new state-of-the-art powder-coating facility that achieves 2604 AAMA specs. In common terms this is a “marine grade” finish that performs well even in some of the harshest conditions. Plus, DesignRail® horizontal cable infill posts are drilled before they are powder coated, ensuring the powder coating is applied to the edge of the drill hole, which is another Feeney quality benefit!
Yes, we do offer pre-drilled posts for both level and stair conditions.
While not required, we highly recommend using a bottom rail with a 42″ horizontal cable system. We have found that a bottom rail design not only strengthens the framework, but also reduces the number of cables needed, which reduces the amount of compression on your end posts.
Yes, we do offer specially designed, pre-drilled corner posts that allow the cables to be laced continuously through a single post. Pre-drilled single corner posts are available for both 90° and 45° corners. With this type of corner post condition, we recommend cable runs do not exceed 30 feet and that no more than 2 corner posts are used per cable run. This will ensure that the cables can be properly tensioned.
The picket is not a structural component. It is simply a railing element that helps minimize cable deflection, making it easier to meet the 4-inch code requirement.
We recommend the cables be spaced 3 inches on center to allow for up to an inch of deflection between any two adjacent cables and still meet the 4-inch building code. See the CableRail FAQs (above) for specifics on horizontal CableRail Infill solutions.
No, currently we only provide powder-coated aluminum.
Not at this time. We only provide square posts.